![]() ![]() I'll mention two more anyway though, the HSL sliders from LR exist in a different form in the color zones module in dt, and the best noise reduction module to start with is denoise (profiled). If there are any other Lightroom features that are used in your presets let me know and I'd be happy to suggest more modules. RawTherapee provides almost absolute control over photo editing, so studying and using this program undoubtedly requires much effort. However, RawTherapee is more convenient, stable and functional. These are two massive features that might make you wonder what Adobe was actually doing with your monthly subscription fee! Speaking about Darktable, it is more suitable for beginners. I would recommend the tone equalizer for adjusting the highlights and shadows, and trying levels, tone curve or color balance to adjust black and white points.Īnother big tip is that you can duplicate modules and you should definitely check out the parametric masking - which used together could for example allow you to create multiple exposure modules that are masked to target the exact shadow or highlight regions you want to manipulate. Doesn't really work the way you would expect coming from Lightroom. One big tip is to avoid the shadows and highlights module IMO. I tried darktable on at least two separate occasions before I really felt comfortable jumping over full-time with v3.0, and the key really was to just to just abandon the idea of trying to port my workflow across from Lightroom.Īs it turns out (unsurprisingly?) I can do everything I used to do in Lightroom and more in darktable, but there isn't really a one-to-one relationship between modules so there was some trial and error as I went through different modules to figure out how they behave. This will help a lot in the long run, because you will know what you're doing and you can use the modern scene-referred workflow with the tone equalizer, color balance and filmic modules. This will not be perfect, and it will use the 'classic' darktable modules like base curve and color zones.ī, strongly recommended) Try to find out what your presets actually do, and try to recreate that effect in darktable yourself. The result is reasonable for most modules (tone curve, exposure, cropping, maybe even color adjustments) but far from perfect.Ī) Apply a preset (and only a preset) to an image in Lightroom, import that to darktable and make a style from its history stack. If you import photos in darktable that were previously edited in Lightroom (and have an xmp sidecar) darktable will try to import those adjustments as well. darktable uses different methods and different controls than Lightroom to process an image. This will open on the current window without the usual small chat window :: For in-depth information, please check the screencasts wiki. New to darktable and not sure where to start? These links may be of help. Possible Bug wiki | FAQ | Resources Official darktable □ darktable links Adjust the DNG images until they work for you, then save the profile as a starting point to use on subsequent photos.An Unofficial place for questions, discussions, tutorials, workflows and possible bug discussions about darktable. Until Autel provides a corrective profile that we can import into Photoshop and Lightroom the fix will have to come from the user. none were able to produce even a semblance of accurate colors so you can assume that the problem comes straight from the drone. ![]() I also tried opening the DNG files in a variety of RAW editors that I have. The first photo is your RAW, the second is the JPEG from your Nano+ and the third is the one I created in LrC. ![]() I didn't spend too much time at it, just a couple of quick changes with the hue sliders so it still has a ways to go. The result is a photo much closer to the JPEG you provided. I also made some smaller adjustments to the primary colors. I had to wildly change the hue of orange and yellow. using Lightroom Classic on your RAW / DNG, I attempted to mimic your JPEG file. ![]()
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